Wild West Wales: Explore Carmarthenshire

Great countryside, great events and great place to visit - check out our indepth guide to West Wales.

Bread of Heaven A land of rolling green hills, woodlands, ruined castles, mountains and stunning coastline, Carmarthenshire in South West Wales is an easily reached and laidback short break destination.

Often ignored by holidaymakers in favour of the more apparent coastal charms and tourist hotspots of Pembrokeshire farther west, those who visit Carmarthenshire are seldom disappointed. Unlike Pembrokeshire it is a noticeably Welsh speaking area, too, where the language is still used in everyday life.

The small town of Llandeilo, in the heart of the county, is undoubtedly a hidden gem, with its beautiful single span stone bridge – the largest in Wales - a central feature. Nearby Dinefwr Park and Castle are also well worth a visit. The castle and park represent a unique and tangible link with a most illustrious phase in Wales’ history. Newton House, built in 1660, has an informative exhibition on the park’s history, while the ruins of Dinefwr Castle, the court of the medieval south Wales Kingdom of Deheubarth and powerbase for the powerful 'Lord Rhys,' who accompanied Richard III at the battle of Bosworth, can be reached through historic tracks and walk-ways rich in wildlife.

Indeed, Dinefwr is priceless in terms of wildlife. Its veteran tree community is, with the New Forest in England, one of the most important in the UK; the parkland is the most important site in South Wales for lichens and second most important in Wales for deadwood invertebrates.


Dinefwr Castle, strategically positioned overlooking the Tywi Valley, is part of three castles originally built by the Welsh, but extended considerably by the Normans to aid them in subduing the local population. The other two castles are Dryslwyn, to the South of Llandeilo, which has now been reduced to rubble. But if you can handle the short, but extremely steep climb to the top it offers extremely good views of the lower Tywi Valley. Near Dryslwyn Castle is The National Botanical Garden of Wales, which blends the design of Norman Foster's Great Glasshouse with a careful restoration programme of the original walled gardens of the Middleton Estate. It is one of the most fascinating gardens in the UK and is pioneering the protection of a number of rare plant-life. It is most definitely a must-see destination for all those with green-fingers.

The remaining Castle in the original triangular defence of the Tywi valley is perhaps one of the most spectacular ruins in the whole of Wales. Situated at the top of a rocky crag on the Western edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park, Carreg Cennen Castle offers spectacular views of the Black Mountain and dominates its surroundings. Dating back to at least the 13th Century, although some archaeological evidence suggests that the site may have been used by the Romans, a walk around the ruins of Carreg Cennen Castle is to step back in time to feel a part of Welsh history.

The nearby village of Trap is also home to the famous Brecon Carreg mineral water, where you can visit a shop and tea rooms on the site.

Further West and the rolling green hills of Carmarthenshire give-way to Carmarthen Bay. Pendine, a small and popular holiday spot has one of the best beaches in the country, stretching for mile upon mile. So vast is the beach in fact that it was previously used for land speed record attempts. In 1927 J.G Parry Thomas was killed trying to beat Malcolm Campell's record of 175 miles per hour. There is a small museum in the town dedicated to Pendine’s motoring heritage.
Nearby is the small town of Laugharne, the famous home town of Dylan Thomas, which formed much of the inspiration for his play Under Milk Wood. As well as his former home, the boathouse (pictured), you can also visit Laugharne Castle, which is an excellent example of Norman castle building. In recent years Laugharne has gained much attention as the base of actor Neil Morrissey’s (Men Behaving Badly, also the voice of Bob the Builder) business Empire. He owns a number of properties in the area, notably Thomas’s old drinking haunt Brown’s Hotel, as well as the nearby exclusive retreat and restaurant, Hurst House.

North-east of Llandeilo the rolling green hills of Carmarthenshire make way for the bleakly beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park. The small market town of Llandovery, on the western edge of the National Park and close to the new-home of the Prince of Wales, is worth stopping at for a coffee and a walk around the castle ruins, although they are not as impressive as others in the locality. The remains of an Iron Age fort at Garn Goch, or ‘red hillock,’ due to the startling red colour of the fern covered hillock in the winter months is an out-of-the-way gem with outstanding views of the surrounding countryside.

Carmarthenshire is easily reached from England – simply get on the M4 and drive West until the very end and your there, and is only three and a half hours from London. If you are looking for a quiet retreat, with country walks, famous ruins and enjoyable hospitality, without any of the associated tourist paraphernalia of Devon or Cornwall, then Carmarthenshire could be the destination for you.

Where to Stay
Cwmgwyn Farmhouse B&B, Llandovery: A 17th century farmhouse full of character with exposed beams and plenty of country atmosphere on the outskirts of Llandovery. Cwmgwyn farm is a working farm rearing cattle and sheep and is admirably situated with splendid views across the river Towy. Price: £25 per person, per night and includes a full Welsh breakfast. www.cwmgwyn-holidays.co.uk
Hurst House, Laugharne: Neil Morrissey’s popular getaway hotel Hurst House, near Laugharne, has an enviable reputation in the locality for excellent food, superb facilities and a relaxed atmosphere. www.hurst-house.co.uk
The Cawdor Arms Hotel, Llandeilo: Recently renovated to bring the rooms into the twenty-first century, the Cawdor Arms Hotel is a Grade II listed building in the heart of Llandeilo and is well placed to be a relaxing base from which to explore the locality. Rooms from £65 per room, per night, with breakfast. www.thecawdor.com